Vim Li Cas Koj Yuav Tsum Ntxiv Lactic, Citric, thiab Lwm Cov Acids rau Koj Cov Kev Kho Hniav

Zoo Siab

• Mandelic Acid
• Lactic Acid
• Malic kua qaub
• Azelaic kua qaub
• Phytic Acid Cov
• Tartaric acid
• Citric Acid Cov
• Zoo tshaj plaws
• Ntsuam xyuas rau

Thaum glycolic acid tau qhia nyob rau hauv thaum ntxov 1990s, nws tau hloov pauv rau kev saib xyuas tawv nqaij. Paub tias yog alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), nws yog thawj lub khw muag khoom muaj cov khoom koj tuaj yeem siv hauv tsev txhawm rau ua kom cov tawv nqaij tuag-cell-sloughing thiab nthuav tawm tshiab, du dua, tawv nqaij hauv qab. Tom qab ntawd peb tau kawm tias cov piam thaj tuaj yeem txhawb nqa koj cov tawv nqaij cov collagen ntau lawm.

Tom qab ntawd tuaj salicylic acid, beta hydroxy acid (BHA) uas tuaj yeem yaj sebum sib sib zog nqus sab hauv lub qhov hws thiab ua zoo li tiv thaiv kev ua paug, ua rau nws zoo rau liab, khaus, ua rau tawv nqaij. (Saib: Puas yog Salicylic Acid Puas Yog Ib Yam Ua Rau Pob Zeb?) Yog li, glycolic acid tau dhau los ua tus qauv kub rau kev tiv thaiv kab mob thiab salicylic acid tau dhau los ua kev tiv thaiv pob txuv. Qhov ntawd tseem tsis tau hloov pauv mus txog thaum tsis ntev los no.

Tam sim no qee cov khoom tu tawv nqaij muaj cov kua qaub tsawg dua li mandelic, phytic, tartaric, thiab lactic. Vim li cas qhov ntxiv? "Kuv xav txog glycolic thiab salicylic acids ua cov neeg ua yeeb yam hauv kev ua si thiab cov kua qaub no ua cov cam khwb cia. Thaum lawv txhua tus ua haujlwm ua ke, lawv tuaj yeem txhim kho kev tsim khoom, "hais tias. Cov duab Brain Trust tus tswv cuab Neal Schultz, MD, kws kho mob New York City.

Cov neeg txhawb nqa no txhim kho kev ua tau zoo rau ob qho laj thawj. Ua ntej, thaum cov kua qaub feem ntau pab rau kev tshem tawm, "txhua tus ua tsawg kawg ib qhov txiaj ntsig ntxiv rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij," hais tias NYC kws kho mob tawv nqaij Dennis Gross, MD Cov no suav nrog txhawb nqa cov dej, tiv thaiv cov dawb radicals, thiab pab tswj cov mis kom ntev dua. (Txog: 5 Cov Khoom Siv Kho Hniav Ntawm Cov tawv nqaij uas tshem tawm ntawm daim tawv nqaij dull thiab pab koj ci los ntawm sab hauv) Qhov thib ob yog vim li cas siv ntau cov kua qaub ntawm qhov qis qis (es tsis yog ib qho ntawm cov concentration siab) yuav ua rau cov mis tsis khaus. "Ntau dua li ntxiv ib qho kua qaub ntawm 20 feem pua, Kuv nyiam ntxiv plaub cov kua qaub ntawm 5 feem pua ​​kom ua tiav cov txiaj ntsig zoo ib yam nrog qhov tsis muaj feem ua rau liab liab," Dr. Gross hais. (FYI, combo ntawm cov kua qaub yog cov khawv koob tom qab Tus Me Nyuam Ko Taw.)

Yog li dab tsi tshwj xeeb cov txiaj ntsig ua rau cov neeg tuaj tshiab no muaj? Peb rhuav nws:

Mandelic Acid

Qhov no yog qhov tshwj xeeb loj molecule, yog li nws tsis nkag rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Dr. "Gross hais tias" Qhov ntawd ua rau nws zoo dua rau cov hom rhiab vim tias kev nkag mus tob dua txhais tau tias muaj kev pheej hmoo qis dua ntawm kev ua kom khaus, "Dr. Renée Rouleau, tus kws tshaj lij tshuaj pleev ib ce hauv Austin, hais tias AHA no tseem tuaj yeem pab "txhaum cov xim ntau dhau." Nrog ib tug caveat. "Mandelic acid pab txhim kho exfoliation thiab txo qhov kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev ua kom khaus thaum ua ke nrog glycolic, lactic, lossis salicylic, tab sis nws tej zaum tsis txaus ntawm lub zog ua kom muaj nyob hauv cov khoom ib leeg."

Lactic Acid

Nws tau nyob ib puag ncig ntev-Cleopatra siv cov mis tsis zoo hauv nws chav da dej ib puag ncig 40 BCE vim tias cov mis nyuj ntuj tsim cov kua qaub tau pab ua kom tawv nqaij tawv-tab sis yeej tsis tau ua tiav qib glycolic vim tias nws tsis zoo li muaj zog, uas tuaj yeem yog qhov zoo. Lactic yog cov molecule loj, yog li nws yog lwm txoj hauv kev zoo rau cov hom rhiab, thiab tsis zoo li mandelic, nws muaj zog txaus los ua tus coj ua hauv cov khoom. Dr. Gross piav qhia tias lactic acid tseem khi rau saum txheej ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab txhawb kom nws ua cov ceramides, uas pab kom cov dej noo nyob hauv thiab ua kom khaus tawm. (Tej zaum koj kuj tseem tau hnov ​​txog lactic acid hais txog cov leeg qaug zog thiab rov zoo.)

Malic kua qaub

Sourced feem ntau los ntawm cov txiv apples, AHA no muab qee cov txiaj ntsig antiaging zoo ib yam li cov kua qaub, tab sis "nws muaj ntau yam me me," hais tias Debra Jaliman, MD, kws kho mob New York City. Thaum ntxiv los ua cov khoom txhawb nqa hauv cov mis uas muaj cov kua qaub muaj zog xws li lactic, glycolic, thiab salicylic, nws pab maj mam tshem tawm thiab tshem tawm ceramide.

Azelaic kua qaub

Tsis yog AHA lossis BHA, azelaic acid, muab los ntawm cov nplej, rye, lossis barley, "muaj ob qho tshuaj tua kab mob thiab tiv thaiv kab mob, ua rau nws kho tau zoo rau pob txuv lossis rosacea," hais tias Jeremy Brauer, MD, kws kho mob New York . Nws kho ob qho tib si los ntawm kev nqis los rau hauv cov hauv paus hniav, tua cov kab mob hauv lawv thiab hais qhov mob tshwm sim los ntawm kev kis kab mob. Azelaic acid kuj tseem tuaj yeem "nres kev tsim cov melanin ntau lub luag haujlwm rau qhov tsaus ntuj, quav hnav, thiab thaj ua rau thaj tsis sib xws," Dr. Jaliman hais. Nws tsim nyog rau cov tawv nqaij tsaus (tsis zoo li hydroquinone thiab qee lub lasers) vim tias tsis muaj kev pheej hmoo ntawm hypo- lossis hyperpigmentation, thiab nws tau pom zoo rau cev xeeb tub thiab poj niam laus. Qhov ntawd yog qhov tseem ceeb ntxiv vim tias "muaj coob tus poj niam muaj teeb meem nrog melas thiab tawg thaum cev xeeb tub," Dr. Jaliman hais. (Nov yog yuav ua li cas txhawm rau tawm koj cov tawv nqaij nrog kev kho lasers thiab tev.)

Phytic Acid Cov

Lwm cov kua qaub uas tsis yog AHA lossis BHA, qhov tsis zoo no yog cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob, yog li nws pab tiv thaiv cov tawv nqaij laus laus dawb radicals. Nws tseem tuaj yeem tiv thaiv blackheads thiab ntsws qhov hws. "Phytic acid ua hauj lwm los ntawm gobbling calcium, uas yog notoriously phem rau daim tawv nqaij," Dr. Gross hais tias. "Calcium hloov koj cov tawv nqaij cov roj los ntawm cov kua rau hauv cov quav ciab, thiab nws yog cov tuab tuab uas ua rau hauv qhov hws, ua rau cov taub hau dub thiab nthuav tawm cov pores kom lawv loj dua." (Nov yog txhua yam koj xav paub txog tshem tawm cov blackheads.)

Tartaric acid

Qhov AHA no los ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo fermented thiab ntxiv rau glycolic lossis lactic acid cov qauv kom ntxiv dag zog rau lawv cov sloughing. Tab sis nws cov txiaj ntsig tseem ceeb yog nws lub peev xwm los tswj cov qauv qib pH. Rouleau hais tias "Acids yog qhov tsis zoo rau morphing pHs, thiab yog tias lawv viav vias siab dhau lossis qis dhau ntawm cov khoom, qhov tshwm sim yog tawv nqaij khaus," Rouleau hais. "Tartaric acid tuaj yeem pab ua kom ruaj khov." (Muaj feem xyuam: 4 Yam Ntxim Saib Ntxim Ua Ua Rau Koj Cov tawv nqaij Tsis Tshuav)

Citric Acid Cov

Zoo ib yam li tartaric, citric acid, AHA pom feem ntau hauv cov txiv qaub thiab txiv qaub, tseem khaws lwm cov kua qaub nyob hauv thaj tsam pH nyab xeeb. Tsis tas li ntawd, nws ua raws li kev khaws cia, ua kom cov qauv kev tu tawv nqaij kom nyob twj ywm tshiab dua. Thaum kawg, citric acid yog chelator, uas txhais tau tias nws tshem tawm qhov tsis huv uas tsis huv (los ntawm huab cua, dej, thiab hnyav hlau) ntawm daim tawv nqaij. "Citric acid rub mus rau cov impurities no kom lawv nkag tsis tau rau koj cov tawv nqaij," Dr. Gross hais. "Kuv nyiam xav tias nws yog daim tawv nqaij Pac-Man." (PS koj yuav tsum tau nyeem ntawm koj cov tawv nqaij microbiome.)

Zoo tshaj plaws

Sim cov khoom uas muaj cov kua qaub no kom muaj zog ntxiv.

• Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Exfoliating Moisturizer ($68; sephora.com) boasts xya acids.
• Ntxhw Ntxhw T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Hmo Ntuj Serum ($ 90; sephora.com) rov tshwm sim thaum koj tsaug zog.
• Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% ($ 8; the extraordinary.com) ua suab nrov.
• BeautyRx los ntawm Dr. Schultz Advanced 10% Exfoliating Pads ($ 70; amazon.com) smooths, brightens, thiab firms.
• Dr. Brandt Radiance Resurfacing Foam ($72; sephora.com) muab cov tawv nqaij ib lub lim tiam ntawm tsib acids.

Ntsuam xyuas rau